A Diamond In The Rough

Introduction

Cabo Ledo in Luanda, Angola, has a hidden gem in the form of a point break, with the bonus of a view of mega cliffs and jungle, and the wholesome experience of having fun surfing with local kids and perhaps a handful of other surfing tourists. The main break is a powerful right-hand point break that peels perfectly over a rocky bottom, offering long, fast rides that can reach up to 300 meters on a good day. The wave is at its best during the Southern Hemisphere’s winter months (May to September), when swells generated in the South Atlantic deliver consistent overhead to double-overhead conditions. Cabo Ledo's wave looks a bit like Elands Bay (on a smaller swell) in the West Coast of South Africa.

In addition to the main point break, there are several other waves in the area, including beach breaks and reef breaks, providing variety for surfers looking to explore. Beginners can find smaller, more forgiving waves closer to shore, while experienced surfers can challenge themselves with the powerful barrels and steep walls of the main break.

One of the most appealing aspects of surfing in Cabo Ledo is the lack of crowds. Unlike more popular surf destinations, you’ll often find yourself sharing the lineup with just a handful of other surfers, making it a truly peaceful and immersive experience.

Infrastructure: Developing but Functional

While Cabo Ledo is still relatively undeveloped compared to more established surf destinations, the infrastructure is steadily improving, though don't expect 5 star service and facilities for the price you pay - it's a remote, impoverished area and access to high quality resources is challenging. The area is home to a few surf camps and guesthouses that cater specifically to surf travelers. These accommodations range from basic to mid-range, offering comfortable lodging, meals, and easy access to the waves.

One of the most popular options is the Cabo Ledo Surf Camp, which provides surf guides, equipment rentals, and boat trips to nearby breaks. The camp’s laid-back atmosphere and friendly staff make it a favorite among visiting surfers. For those seeking a more luxurious experience, there are a handful of boutique lodges and eco-resorts in the surrounding area, though options are limited.

In terms of amenities, Cabo Ledo is still a remote destination, so don’t expect a bustling town with restaurants and shops. However, most surf camps provide meals, and there are a few local eateries where you can sample Angolan cuisine. It’s a good idea to bring any essentials with you, as supplies can be limited.

The Local Vibe: Authentic and Welcoming

Challenges and Considerations

While Cabo Ledo is a surfer’s paradise, there are a few challenges to keep in mind. The remote location means that medical facilities are limited, so it’s essential to travel with a well-stocked first aid kit and travel insurance. Additionally, the area’s infrastructure is still developing, so patience and flexibility are key. Remote exploration off-the-beaten-track can potentially end in disaster due to the landmines still present in Angola. Sticking to paths that have been travelled will ensure your safety, but exploring random peaks by 4x4 probably isn't wise.

Another consideration is the water quality, which can be affected by runoff during the rainy season. It’s advisable to check local conditions and avoid surfing after heavy rains.

Heavy rains can move potential contaminants, including sewage, agricultural runoff, and other pollutants, in the water. In many coastal areas, especially those with limited infrastructure, heavy rainfall can overwhelm drainage systems and cause untreated wastewater or runoff from streets, farms, and industrial areas to flow into the ocean. This runoff can carry bacteria, viruses, chemicals, and other harmful substances into the water, making it unsafe for swimming or surfing.

In the case of Cabo Ledo, while the area is relatively remote and less developed than some other surf destinations, there is still a risk of water contamination during the rainy season. This is particularly true in areas near rivers or streams that flow into the ocean, as they can carry pollutants from inland areas. What Does This Mean for Surfers?

• Health Risks: Surfing in contaminated water can expose you to waterborne illnesses, such as gastrointestinal infections, skin rashes, ear infections, or more serious conditions like hepatitis.

• Precautionary Measures: To minimize risks, it’s a good idea to avoid surfing for at least 24-48 hours after heavy rains, as this gives time for the water to clear and for contaminants to disperse. If you’re unsure about water quality, ask locals or your surf camp for advice.

• Hygiene: After surfing, rinse off thoroughly with clean water, especially if you suspect the water might have been contaminated. Avoid swallowing water or exposing open wounds to the ocean during these times.

The good news is that the heavy rains occur during their Summer months, from November to April, not for the Winter swell. For surfers, the dry season (May to October) is generally the best time to visit Cabo Ledo. During this period:

• Swells are More Consistent: The Southern Hemisphere's winter months bring reliable swells from the South Atlantic, creating ideal surfing conditions.

• Clearer Water: With less rainfall, there’s less runoff, and water quality tends to be better.

• Pleasant Weather: The dry season offers cooler temperatures and lower humidity, making it more comfortable for surfing and exploring.

History: Early Days of Surfing in Angola

• 1970s–1980s: Surfing in Angola was initially introduced by expatriates, Portuguese settlers, and a few adventurous travelers who discovered the country’s wave-rich coastline. During this time, surfing was largely limited to a small group of enthusiasts due to the country’s political instability and civil war (1975–2002), which made travel and leisure activities difficult.

• 1990s: As the civil war began to wind down, surfing started to gain more attention, particularly in Luanda, where a small but growing community of surfers began to explore the nearby coastline. However, Cabo Ledo remained relatively undiscovered due to its remote location and lack of infrastructure.

History: Cabo Ledo’s Surfing Emergence

• Early 2000s: After the end of the civil war in 2002, Angola began to stabilize, and interest in surfing grew. Cabo Ledo’s world-class waves started to attract attention from both local and international surfers. The first surf camps and guesthouses began to appear, catering to adventurous travelers and surfers seeking uncrowded waves.

• 2010s: By this decade, Cabo Ledo had established itself as Angola’s premier surf destination. The construction of the EN100 coastal highway improved accessibility, and the area began to see more surf tourism. Local Angolans, particularly younger generations, started to take up surfing, inspired by visiting surfers and the growing global popularity of surfing.

Where To Stay

There is only 1 Airbnb in Cabo Ledo and it’s going for R5,250 ZAR per night.

Due to the lack of infrastructure, the options are few and the prices are high compared to surf towns like Jeffreys Bay, South Africa. Don’t expect luxury, it's a developing country after all.

If you're lucky, you may be able to get a booking at Carpe Diem Resort for € 140/R1300 per night. It's situated close to Cabo Ledo Point Break and appears to be one of the few decent, reliable and affordable places to stay.

Alternatively try https://www.queirozpoint.com/, but book in advance.

Getting There

A 4x4 is recommended, though a regular SUV will suffice as 4x4 rentals are incredibly expensive.
For R1500 per day you can rent a Toyota Raize from Kayak.

R1500 x 10 days = R15000 total. This will also allow you to adventure around the coast.
Comments on Reddit:
"If its first time avoid changing money on the street u can’t do this alone if it’s your first time, there’s currency change at airport (departures). Do not I repeat do not use any taxis at airport (all scam), in your Apple Store or Google Play install Uber like services (Yango and Heetch)."
"Withdraw money from ATM. They charge a bit but it is much safer. Trust me!"

While there are taxis available at Quatro de Fevereiro International Airport (Luanda Airport), finding a taxi directly from the airport to Cabo Ledo (approximately 120 kilometers south of Luanda) can be challenging and not recommended.

A more reliable and comfortable option is to arrange a private transfer or pre-book a driver. Many hotels, surf camps, and tour operators in Cabo Ledo offer this service.

Tripadvisor Testimonials

"Great and relaxt place in a magnificent location. In a country where sometimes getting things done is a bit of a challenge if you don't speak Portuguese very well and don't have a visa credit card it is an oasis of practical and easy solutions. And the surfing, the surrounding and the atmosphere is great. The surfing is amazing and the local kids can show you lots of nice tricks ;)"

"I was hesitant to travel to Angola but i decided to go anyway for surfing. The country has a lot to offer for surfers. We stayed at Carpe Diem for 1 week in June 2023. The service and attention from Gonzalo the manager was 5 stars. The staff are all very helpful and well trained. Everyone tries to make your stay as pleasant as possible. The facilities are very clean but quite simple. Carpe Dieam Resort is probably the best there is in the area. The food is all very fresh and good and the wine and cocktails also. I would definitely return."

Other Surf Spots In Luanda?

Buraco is a good alternative, or addition to Cabo Ledo.
The Flamingo Bay Resort offers affordable accommodation at around R1500 per night.

It's 56km away from the airport. Hiring a car and exploring that side of the coast will make for an epic adventure.